Wednesday, 19 December 2012

 STORM!!!!! The ship rocked and rolled all through the night and things crashed all around me.  A cup flew across the room, the box of tissues followed and then there was a tremendous crash in the stateroom above me sometime in the middle of the night.  It sounded like a tray of dishes.  A few minutes ago, the partition separating my balcony from the stateroom next door broke open – clang, bang.  According to the Captain, we had a force 11 storm with winds of 65 knots!

Right now, the wind is blowing at 51 knots, we are still rocking and rolling – 5 bars on the scale and heavy, heavy rain.  The decks and balconies are closed and locked.  The wind is force 10!!

I have had hay fever for the past 2 days.  My nose is raw and my throat scratchy.  My nose runs fairly constantly and it’s uncomfortable and embarrassing but not much more than that.  Years ago when I was in France in late April, the usual time for hay fever, I got some medicine at a pharmacy, without a prescription – Phenergan.  When I got back to Germany, my pharmacist said that it was prescribed for psychosis.  Perhaps if hay fever attacks last too long, you automatically become psychotic.  Anyway, I am desperate enough to take a pill and perhaps fall asleep in the Queen’s Room.

This evening marks the beginning of the Captain’s Cocktail Parties time – it’s really a “Sauffest” – German for all you can drink, in this case, for free.  I order a rum-less, mint-less mojito (read: lime soda), which I hold in a jaunty, I’m-really-grown-up manner and blend right in.   Fortunately, I have already seen and spoken to several passengers I met during this part of the trip last year, and, am looking forward to two more, people from my table last Christmas.

OK, time for the pill and as much Spanish homework as I can get done before the morning trivia quiz.

Morning trivia quiz is over – he asked questions which I knew so I got 18 out of 20.  It’s called “Team Trivia” and you can have teams of up to 6.  I played on a team once and it was so unpleasant that I now play on the Team of Me.  It works very well – I am never disappointed when I do not know the answer.

 

 

Canoeing - me?

A short, very amazing adventure:

I have a friend, Bernard, who is the closest to a Renaissance man I have ever met:  a university trained engineer, fluent in (at least) 3 languages, an almost if not professional photographer, plumber, electrician, mason, carpenter, a quick wit in German and English with a devilish sense of humor and intellectual interests ranging from business administration to finance, politics (American, German, European), travel, cars, sailing and on and on.  He is also tall and extremely good-looking.

We try to meet for lunch 2 or 3 times a year and generally have a long lunch before I get on the train for the 2 hour ride home.

Last month, we met on a Friday, after my futile trip to a consulate and the unsuccessful attempt to get a visa, unsuccessful because there was a form necessary which was not listed in the internet.  In the middle of our usual Italian lunch, B said, " What about canoeing?"  At that moment, he might as well have suggested vandalizing a cemetery or eating a plastic bag for dessert.  However, not being one to reject a non-lethal adventure immediately, I temporized, all the while thinking, "Me, canoe?? Does not compute!"

But, the weather was lovely and the other suggestion would have been something inside, so I agreed.  Have you ever noticed that the anticipation of something scary is much worse than the actual fact?

It seemed like a giant leap (and not for mankind) from the pier into the canoe but I made it with only one splinter in my hand, quickly removed.  And we were off, at a leisurely float with the occasional paddle (he did the paddling).  Within about 20 seconds I forgot that I was in a canoe, that I could not swim well and would probably die of fright from the proximity of seaweed and fish and that I would have to come back twice for the visa.  It was wonderful, floating along tributaries of the Alster, with a view of the backs and gardens of magnificent houses, and (my favorite) weeping willows hanging over the water. 

Although we were in the middle of Germany's 2nd largest city, there were times when the only sounds were from the birds with the occasional splash of the paddle, a sure-cure for whatever ails you.

Thanks, Bernard.

PS:  those houses I mentioned?  The average price is about €19,000  per square meter.   That's about $24,600 for about 11 square feet so if you have an extra €2m, there is at least one house for sale - we saw the sign.

Other photographs

Chinese New Year:

Four D's and a C

Most of the sail-away parties, held on the aft outside deck seemed to be scheduled for 6 pm, just when I should be sitting down to dinner.   The service on board was the most excellent I have ever experienced and my waiters (waiter and assistant waiter as well as the Head Waiter for my section) were wonderful.  They, along with many other crew members, spoiled me wonderfully - thanks guys.  But, as I hated to make them wait (in the other sense of the word) for me, I would always miss the sail-away.

However, the last Southampton sail-away began about 4 pm and while standing next to a dance host, I saw the Isle of Wight, his home.  He pointed out various landmarks and really should work for the tourist board. 

As I turned to dance with some people doing the Electric Slide, my best friend from the crew said, "There you are.  I want you to meet some other friends of mine".  And thus, I met the 4 D's and a C - Iris, a big-band singer with a lilting voice, Steve with a very dry English sense of humor, Jaimie, tall, blonde, ebullient and irrepressible and Tom, by turns a serious businessman and a hilarious party animal and great dancer.  

C, husband of the aforementioned Jaimie, is one of the most interesting people you are likely to meet.  I can imagine him in a "MacGyver" situation, having to prevent x-number of bad guys from taking over the world.  He would devise a fiendish plot (only fiendish to the bad guys, brilliant to the rest of us) using a spanner, burned out light bulb, plastic cup, lemon juice and string and would, in fact, save the world without harming anyone or the environment.

Jaimie and Tom are best friends, best siblings, best off-spring and a tribute to their parents.  Steve and Iris are the kind of parents many of us wish for and rarely get.

The D's and C exude love for each other and it radiates around them.  I was lucky enough to be within the circle and it was one of the most wonderful times of my life. From the trivia quizzes at the crack of dawn, 10:30 am, to the after-disco trek to the buffet from 2 am on,  we talked, laughed, negotiated trivia answers, danced, sang in the ballroom with Pat at 2 am, joined in singing BUILD ME UP, BUTTERCUP at the karaoke and laughed some more. 

Another "amazing" adventure which ended with an invitation for me to visit them - I'm looking forward to it. 

Thanks for the memories.

Three Opinions and The "D's"

I have mentioned, probably more than necessary, that the accident in December changed my life.  It convinced me to travel on the RMS QUEEN MARY 2, originally for NYC and back, which kept getting extended until May.  During this time, I had some right knee/right leg pains but only when I was inactive.  I could dance, walk around the deck, go up and down the stairs - quickly - but sitting for long periods seemed to freeze my knee and make the entire leg throb.

So, after absolutely no consideration and a very long time, I began the rounds of doctors, specialists, physical therapists.  The surgeon was very cute, 40-something, with a deep, well-modulated voice guaranteed to send women my age into a swoon, but not before signing the consent form.

After enough x-rays to cause my knee to glow in the dark, the surgeon began to describe the injury:  when I fell, the top of the fibula was split but no one in the ER noticed it - he skipped over the not-noticing part.  Actually the ER doctor didn't notice the blood caked on my left leg even though I was wearing a skirt.   I told her that I didn't want to get blood on the clothes so I didn't wear trousers - the temperature was close to freezing, "it being winter and all".  She was more surprised about my not feeling the cold and kept telling me that.  I kept telling her that my knees hurt and finally she said, "Of course, you just fell down!" - in parentheses, "You Dummy!"

So, everything healed, new bone grew but all in the wrong places.  By the time I got my knee looked at in July, it was no longer possible to prove that the injury was from the December accident.

So, the surgeon began, in deep, reassuring tones, to describe the proposed (7+ hour) operation, which seemed to involve shaving the new growth........that's when I tuned out and simply smiled at him.  When he was finished, I asked him what he would recommend if I were his mother.  For a moment, he lost his "cool" so I repeated my question, pointing out that I was more than old enough to be his mother.  He sighed and said, "Lose weight and live with some pain and take aspirin on a full stomach if the pain interferes with sleep".   Sounds like a winner to me!  We parted, if not as lovers, certainly as friends.

So, back to the ship, for my "reward" - a continuation of the voyage and meeting the  4 D's and 1 E -  five barking mad, extremely warm, welcoming and wonderful people.  More about them when I get their permission.

Good Bye, Norway

Norway did not want us to leave without saying "Goodbye" so, after starting the day with brilliant sunshine and nearly calm seas, we ran into "weather".  At 4 pm we left the Arctic officially (66 degrees N), sailing in a designated lane about 60 miles out.  The wind and waves increased and for one of the few times, we knew we were at sea.  There was just enough motion to remind us.  Most of the time it is so smooth that we do not experience that sensation. 

Amazing!

58,627.5 nautical miles / 12 Dec 11 to 12 May 12

The distance I sailed from December 12, 2011 to May 12, 2012.

Since December, I have sailed in every ocean on this planet.  Another reason for my Attitude of Gratitude.

Alesund, without the small "o" over the capital "a"

 What a difference a guide makes!!!!!

Bente, our guide for the walking tour, was an absolute gem.  We trudged up hills (she kindly paused to give the out-of-shape people - me - a short rest) accompanied by her expert knowledge of the city, past, present and future.  She, like all good guides, solicited questions which she expertly answered, all the while giving us photo opportunities.

We walked - my favorite - up and down a lot of hills.  My thigh muscles started to complain but the calf muscles beat them to it.  There is a famous look-out at the top of 435 (?) steps.  Given enough time, I could have managed the steps but not the long drops off the side going up.

Alesund is a small town of about 35,000, located on 7 islands, connected by ferries and a tunnel.  There was a toll on one of the roads or tunnels and when the cost had been paid, the toll was abolished - how cool is that!!!  

Buildings which survived the fire

There was a tremendous fire in 1904 and the wooden town burned rapidly and almost completely.  The German Kaiser, Wilhelm II, sent a lot of aid: there is a statue of him in the city park in recognition of his aid.  The Germans were looked upon fondly until they occupied Norway during WW II.  Both sides were surprised at the actions of the other.  The Germans never really understood the Resistance and the Norwegians never understood the entitlement mentality of the Germans.

The town was rebuilt after the fire in the prevalent style of the time - Jugendstil / Art Nouveau.  Consequently, there is more Art Nouveau architecture in Alesund than anywhere else in the North.  Many of the decorations reflect the national influence where the architect studied:  thistles when the architect studied in Scotland, roses from England and France.

House, one room wide

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The town dates from the 9th century when Rolf/Rollo/Rollon (same man, different spellings)  the Ganger (his nickname should be a clue), a thoroughly unpleasant man to have as an enemy had his settlement there.  He later led his Northmen (Norsemen) to northern France and founded what became Normandy, in the process becoming the ancestor of William the Bastard who conquered England in 1066, and thus the ancestor of the English language and of those of us with some Anglo-Norman genes.   If there is a gene for "wandering", perhaps I got it from Rollo.

The group had lots of questions about Norwegian life and one which interested me especially was the unemployment rate - about 2% but still too high as far as the government is concerned.  Also, retirees are encouraged to go home for a few months but then to come back to work.  Sounds ideal.  According to Bente, there is enough work for people who are flexible - just another reason to love this most lovable country.

One more sea day and then Germany and the hope of having my knee, badly damaged in my accident in December but not noticed at that time in the ER, repaired without surgery.

The Midnight Sun

I probably have not given enough space to this most, .....well, amazing phenomenon.  At the North Pole, it lasts for 6 months and at 71 degrees north latitude, it lasts from May to July.  It's difficult to describe a world that never gets dark, where you can read on the deck at midnight and after, and where my body simply did not register getting sleepy until about 3 am when the sun was back up anyway.  I had wondered about the heavily lined drapes in my stateroom - aha, to fool your body into thinking it was night. 

My body adjusted within 30 hours and I was back to being my normal, sleep-deprived self - remember how when you were a child and you had to go to bed and KNEW you were missing something special?  Well, I did not have to miss anything but sleep and enjoyed every waking hour.

Years ago I worked with a Swedish company and the agent told me that because winters are so long and hard, the company closes every day at 1 pm during the summer so that the employees have more time to enjoy the summer.  Quite a good idea.

I have wondered how long it takes to adjust to winters -3 months of darkness??  Once, on a ski trip to central Norway, we never saw the sun.  The hills around the lodge were not particularly high but the sun did not get above them.  On the other hand, the nights were magnificent with a gazillion stars and twice, with aurorae.  Certainly, they would be compensating factors.

Tromso without a line through the 2nd "o"

Trees and snow on the hills and mountains outside the city but the same cheerful, healthy-appearing citizens.  By this time, I had stopped asking ,"Do you speak English?" because apparently EVERYONE does and does so cheerfully. 

I did not book a tour as I wanted to wander and wander I did, up hill and down dale, down one of the main streets and up and down most of the side streets - about 4 hours.  I discovered that baking soda, used to clean my teeth and my clothes, has the same name in Norwegian as in German - Natron.  I went to a grocery store, part of a chain also in Germany, later, found a travelling elk-burger stand featuring elk and reindeer steaks, sausage (smoked or cooked), hamburgers cooked while you wait.  I declined but photographed the truck.

Then, on to a yarn store with a bicycle outside.  The bicycle seat had a cover - a knitted sheep's head, knitted mice on the pedals and an amazing supply of knitting yarn inside, all at Norwegian prices.  Since I did not have a house to mortgage, I only bought enough for a round. 

For years, I have collected yarn from different trips, all either purple or lavender, with a note as to where I got it.  Now, I think I have enough to make a sweater on round needles using all the yarn.  It will be gorgeous!

As with much of the rest of the trip, I got wet, got dry, got wet, got frizzy hair and did not care!  See the Muppets "I Love My Hair" on youtube.

The library, which from the front looks like a shark's jaw, wide open has an enormous number of books in English, another reason for the ease of language, added to not dubbing tv shows and movies.   There were a few empty buildings which did not bother me as much as the usual chain stores which infect most inner cities or shopping malls.  Fortunately, there seems to be enough money around to keep the small shops in business.  Good place for a job??

The Methodist Church

 

The Tromso Savings Bank

Market Square and Whaling Monument

Two explorers

The King Crab Safari

What I thought was our boat.

 What was really our boat!

July 20, 2012

I booked a tour because I found the name intriguing - for no better reason than that.  And after, my initial shock, I was fascinated and "amazed".

QM2 anchored in the outer harbour and took tenders to the small dock.  Just across the street was a shop - 71 degrees North - our outfitters.  There were 16 in our group and we were taken inside and bundled into waterproof suits - bright orange with flotation devices integrated into the fabric.  We looked like tubby elementary school pupils going out into the snow.

 

Instead of snow, we crossed the street through a windy mist or a misty wind and hopped - yes, me too - into a Zodiac, just like Jacques-Yves Cousteau.  The boat is a rubber, bullet-shaped, shallow, very fast speed boat.  It rides above the waves, bouncing at the crest of each.   Wheeeeeee!!!!!  What a rush!
A rush, that is, after the initial "What the hell am I doing here? "  I noticed that the "mood" ring was jet black - stress pure.

But, it was stress without distress.  The best word is exhilarating.  We bounced and bobbed along for about 20 minutes, through the fjord to open water (I think - my glasses were full of salt spray) then to another fjord.  There were two boats and we circled an area marked by an orange buoy.  Then, the two men in charge of our boat hauled up an enormous crab pot - about a meter square, full and very heavy.

For those who don't know, I grew up around the Chesapeake Bay - the most beautiful and probably most mosquito-ridden bay in the world.  Summer memories of my childhood include lots of itching, freckles, sun-bleached red hair and more itching, fishing with my grandfather and never ever catching anything with a hook but lots of blue crabs in the crab pot.  They seem so small in comparison.

The flap on the underside of the shell tells the difference between males and females and one female had thousands and thousands of eggs, most of which will never grow up.  Unlike the Chesapeake Bay blue crabs which are completely consumed except for lungs - gills - shell and inside chitin, the king crab claws and legs are the only parts eaten.  The rest is sometimes used as fertilizer or as bait for other crabs.  As a matter of fact, if the trap is not emptied before the bait is completely consumed, the crabs will eat each other.  There didn't seem to be a good reason why the rest of the crab is not eaten or I did not hear it.  I was too busy avoiding the claws while holding the crab - wait until you see that photo!!

Our driver who spoke excellent English was very knowledgeable and personable, a most attractive combination, talked just enough to inform and encourage questions which he answered enthusiastically and competently.

He took the scenic route getting back because all 8 of us had wanted to stay.  But, after about 10 minutes of "fjording", he saw a squall coming from the open water and wanted to outrun it.  He didn't, despite the very fast speed.  We had spray from the front and rain from the back and it was wonderful.

Once back at the dock, we took our time undressing - it was not possible to removed thick, wet clothing quickly while reliving our adventures in English, German and a combination of both.  We were all "high".

That evening there were only about 20 people in the ballroom so I went to the Chart Room to hear the jazz trio and had a very interesting conversation with a retired German manager.  The next time I see him, I am sure he will ask about Aurora, Colorado and the lack of gun control - damn.

And, while I am at it, many Germans rightly complain about the foreigners who come to Germany and demand signs, forms and the rest of everyday life in their own language.  Yet many Germans (more than 1600 at last count) demand that everything on this ship be in German. 

Apparently, it's not enough that all announcements are repeated in German, there is a German host or hostess stationed at the purser's desk and others scattered throughout the ship, the menu and daily program are in German, there are parallel tours in German and on and on.  And it's still not enough for too many Germans who, because they cannot imagine that I understand them, do not hesitate to vent in my presence.  the most common complaint I have heard is that the summer weather in Northern Norway is horrible.  I guess they think Cunard did promise them a "rose garden."  Their problem, not mine.  Every minute is a joy!